High-Fire Wire Loops:  To save time in the doll assembly stage for miniature dolls (under 6"), in the greenware stage you can use high-fire wire to make and secure loops in the arms and legs. Form the loop out of wire, make sure it will fit in the body opening, then place it in position.  Then, patch the opening (make sure you leave a air hole, so the piece doesn't break in the firing stage).  When the piece is fired, you will have a loop ready to go for stringing!

Stiff Stain Brushes:  These can be a marvelous help to save time in the soft-fired cleaning method (you DO soft-fire clean, don't you??  If not, you should read one of the Seeley publicans on soft-fired cleaning, or take one of their classes--your heath may depend on it!!)  Stiff stain brushes can be used to clean hard-to get at areas of the soft-fired greenware.

White Underglaze:  Yes, I know the purists won't like this, BUT, in making the wee little dollhouse size dolls with painted eyes, you can use a white underglaze like E-Z stroke on the greenware, before firing to porcelain, to make the whites of the eyes.   If you are working on VERY white porcelain, a little food coloring will help you SEE the E-Z stroke, and then will fire off in the kiln.  GREAT time saver, and, if you are not sloppy in the application, it looks FINE.

Sand & Polish:  Never skimp on this step.  Sand and polish bisque parts with 220 grit scrubber before painting; for a REALLY smooth finish, sand and polish after EACH firing.  After sanding, remember to wash off the piece; you might even want to clean it with denatured alcohol to remove any residual oils off of the surface.

Really Small Details:  For VERY small details on a mini-mini doll, such as a 1 1/2" doll, a china painting pen can be invaluable.   Don't overfill the pen with paint, and practice first; a pen can be as difficult to use properly as a brush.